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We know that they’re good, now so does New York

The local dining options continue to get national press, this time Sub Rosa in the New York Times:

Small independent bakers in New York, California, Oregon, Virginia and North Carolina (and many points in between) are going to great lengths to approach an ideal of bread that is simultaneously cutting-edge and primordial. They’re hunting down heirloom grains, early forms of wheat like emmer and einkorn, and milling their own flour.

[…]

For Evrim Dogu, a quest (“searching for that timeless aspect,” he said) led him to dive more deeply into an understanding of Abruzzi rye and Turkey Red wheat. “Heirloom grains smell, taste, feel better,” he said. “For the baker, and for the consumer.” Mr. Dogu, whose family hails from Turkey, mills his own wheat, spelt, rye and corn and aims to make “bread that tastes like the grain itself” at Sub Rosa, his bakery in Richmond, Va.

Photo by Jay Paul for the New York Times